~ hard-to-find white and red Burgundies
Fine Burgundy is a wonderful thing. But due to scarcity and high prices, sadly, it’s becoming harder to track down. Like committed savers, we’ve been putting aside some of the most wonderful, hard-to-find burgundies throughout the year. We’re delighted to share the spoils with you in one neat box!
Taking a leaf from traditional Burgundian practice, let’s start with the reds. A top Vosne name issues a Bourgogne straddling suppleness and structure. While the shy hinterland outpost of Saint Aubin offers the pretty and the fragrant. And if structure is more in your wheelhouse, the Gevrey has it in spades.
Whites depart with a taut Chablis, touring south to a full bodied Chassagne address, before heading into the hidden hamlet of Saint Romain for something long and racy.
2016 Jean Grivot Bourgogne Rouge, $107
Fifth-generation Vosne-Romanée producer Etienne Grivot has evolved his winemaking practices over the years to allow more expression of fruit. But he still wields an iron fist for this velvet glove! Despite being ‘entry-level’ pinot, this trumps most village wines. Vibrant Vosne fruit is guided by fine tannins to a long, long finish. This is a real gem of a wine.
2013 Jean-Jacques Morel ‘Le Ban’ Saint Aubin Rouge, $107
A true iconoclast pushing the boundaries of organic agriculture, Jean-Jacques was once sued by the village of Saint Aubin for letting the inter-row ‘weeds’ (such as rye, calendula and fennel) get too high. He won. From two separate plots above the village, all vineyard work is done by hand. In contrast, winemaking is very much hands-off. Minuscule volumes of fine-boned wine follow, allying an intensity of flavour with delicacy and charm.
2017 S.C. Guillard Bourgogne Rouge, $55
Unconcerned with the whims of winemaking fashion, the wonderful Michel Guillard is meticulous and hands-on in the vineyard. Straight up and down in the cellar. The results speak for themselves, through their fruit weight and texture as well as their perfume and length.
2018 Christophe Petit Chablis, $42
Sourced from Sebastien Christophe’s original block above the lauded Montée du Tonnerre premier cru. But more than the altitude, it is the clarity and definition in this wine that elevates it far beyond its ‘petit’ levels.’ A perennial favourite of ours at CWS, we’re sure it’ll be one of yours as well!
2017 Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Blanc, $64
Great white burgundy effortlessly matches freshness with texture. A line this wine walks easily. Partially, due to location – Alex and Benoit’s Bourgogne vineyards lie within the famed commune of Chassagne-Montrachet. But patient winemaking as well. Barrel ferment, a year of barrel ageing, and careful lees stirring and time to settle, allows this wine to develop at its own pace.
2014 Maison de Montille ‘Le Jarron’ Saint Romain Blanc, $79
The negociant project of the ‘deux Montille’, brother and sister Etienne and Alix, this is sourced from south facing organic plots on the approach to Saint Romain. Winemaking and 16 months elevage happen in 600L barrels with only a very small proportion of them new. The result is a purity of fruit in a wine of tension and length. From probably the best white burgundy vintage this decade, this is really starting to come into its own!