All year we’ve been squirrelling away some of our favourite, hard-to-get Burgundies, to be able to offer you this mixed six-pack, just in time for Christmas! This is a flight from Côte to Côte and everywhere between. The whites draw from the soils of Chablis, Beaune & Mâcon, while the reds kick off with a regional postcard from Beaune’s southern satellites; this is followed by two benchmark village-level reds from either end of the côte to bookend the selection.
This year, give generously; give the gift of excellent Burgundy.
2017 Christophe Petit Chablis, $40
Taking it from the top (of the region), this clean and mineral number is the wine that started it all for cult producer Sebastien Christophe. He inherited this half-hectare parcel on the limestone plateau above the Montée de Tonnerre from his grandfather, and it was the quality of this wine that allowed him to start expanding his holdings. Electric acidity balanced by texture not often seen in Petit Chablis, this is chardonnay made to be as clear as a bell.
2015 Philippe Chavy Bourgogne Blanc, $52
We head south for our next wine, to chardonnay’s spiritual homeland on the Côte de Beaune. Philippe Chavy inherited choice sites around Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault from both sides of his family and has a real sense of humility. Farming biodynamically, they are focussed on living up to the vineyard’s potential, with winemaking designed to accentuate the fruit without taking away freshness. Barrel fermented and with lees stirring for texture, this is poised and elegant, with a powerful core.
2016 Domaine Leflaive Mâcon-Verzé, $65
Arguably the producer that best transmits the terroir of Burgundy’s most prized vineyards, in no small part due to the biodynamic principles the estate championed as early as 1990. As well as holdings in the Côte d’Or, the estate owns close to 10 ha of Mâcon-Verzé, village level wines from the south of the region. Powerful, with 15 months in barrel, it has stone fruits and pastry notes (a peach crostata!), but remains floral and mineral at heart.
2016 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Rouge, $68
Only one ‘barrel’ of this wine made every year, a giant 5000L cask that had to be assembled inside the cellar! A large portion of this is declassified village-level fruit from Santenay, Monthélie, and Beaune, and the quality shows in the polished dark fruit, fennel and anise spices, and ripe tannins. It is hard to find such quality at this level, but it is equally difficult to overstate Leroux’s talent, one of the brightest new stars in the Burgundian firmament.
2015 Huber-Verdereau Volnay ‘Les Robardelles’ $99
Velvet and finessed, this Volnay deserves the village reputation as a seductive style of pinot. Another biodynamic producer focussed on grape quality, the fruit for this comes from vines planted in 1943 by Thiébault Huber’s grandfather. The winemaking is simple allowing the fruit to shine through and almost leap out of the glass, while the tannins add frame without ever trying to steal centre stage. Pinot in its prettiest incarnation!
2016 S.C. Guillard Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Aux Corvées’ Vieilles Vignes, $93
Our final selection is from a domaine that was, until recently, Gevrey-Chambertin’s best kept secret. A complete technophobe with no mobile phone or computer, Guillard makes the kind of soulful old-school Gevrey that the village justly became famous for. Full and powerful, with broad shoulders that taper off slowly into a long and persistent finish.
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